The Vines of Mendoza | Blog

Winemakers Night Recap: Moor Barrio on Winemaking, Wine Descriptors& Inspiration

For the first February Winemakers Night we were treated to the new and boutique winery Moor Barrio, so boutique and new in fact that this was the very first public presentation for the home winery in Guaymallen, near the city. Couple Cristian Moor and Teresita Barrio both make the wine and they brought two wines to share with us on February 1st.

Cristian: You work for Trapiche too. What are the advantages of working for a small artisanal project like Moor Barrio?
“The advantage is to make small quantities you have more control and its easier to show your personality through it.”

Teresita: How did you come to be a winemaker?
“Well the option was to carry on studying or get a job… So I decided to carry on studying! A friend recommended winemaking so I thought, ‘why not?’ I got home and my dad asked me what enology was, and I said ‘I don’t know, let’s find out!’ I then started to fall in love with wine.”

Cristian: You talked about wine descriptors in the talk earlier, what’s the weirdest wine descriptor you have ever heard?
“One man told me a wine (not mine) smelt like black cat… I asked for an explanation and he said it simply reminded him a lot of the smell of his black cat. He said it was a good thing though!”

Teresita: Which woman in wine inspires you the most and why?
“My professors at the University: Alejandra Lozano, Carla Aruani and Amalia Salafia. They are very hardworking, inspiring and amazing women with such energy. But if I were to pick one woman in the world… It would be my mom. We are 10 brothers and sisters and she raised us and always did everything for us.”

Cristian: Do you remember the wine that you and Teresita drank on your first date?
“I don’t remember the wine on our first date… But early on in our relationship we drank a Paisaje de Tupungato by Flichman, and that was the wine which made us want to make wine together – it was our inspiration for the project!”

The Wines we tried:

We tried their Initium Malbec Roble 2011, which was a concentrated but soft wine with lots of fruit, some vanilla and chocolate and a slight cedar-like bitterness at the finish. The second wine was a champenoise method sparkling Chardonnay – Initium Extra Brut 2011 – which had a very light fizz, cooked apple and brioche on the nose and a medium finish.

Learn more about MoorBarrio at www.moorbarrio.com

 

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist whose weirdest wine descriptor words always pop out in the form of old candy tasted in childhood… anyone remember those yellow foam banana sweets?



10 Tips for packing light for your trip to Mendoza

A few months back I moved to Mendoza to join The Vines team – and have since acquired the reputation of being the new hire who brought the most luggage. Four bags weighing in at about 70 lbs each. Love you too LAN Airlines!

So, when I had the great fortune to recently attend The Vines’ adventure to the Galapagos Islands for outdoor adventure and wildlife exploration (you will read more about this here very soon) it came as a great surprise when I showed up with only a medium sized handbag and backpack. And at the end of the trip I realized I brought too much.

So, I’d like to share my recently acquired mastery packing skills, and share my tips on coming to Mendoza with the least amount of luggage possible for those of you headed down during the harvest season.

Here goes:

1) Flip flops or your other favorite flat shoes – It’s a very casual town and you will be doing a lot of walking to see all the plazas and do empanada tasting. So, when in Rome …

2) Sundress – Fits in with the relaxed but not quite hippy-ish vibe of most hangouts in the city. You can wear it to an upscale restaurant or to a dive bar. You will get cat calls at either location. Embrace it. It’s a regional past-time.

3) Polo Shirt / Khakis – If you’re a man, a polo shirt and khakis will suit you in the fanciest location here. At an asado, you’ll be the most dressed up without looking pretentious. But hey, why not impress.

4) Jeans – You will likely get on a horse at some point, and you probably don’t want chafing. And/or, you will likely be punching down grapes at some point and would like to avoid a purple skin hue. Either way, enough said.

5) Hoodie/Fleece – What keeps our grapes so perfect is that the weather cools at night. Prepare yourself accordingly so you’re not too chilly for Pollo Al Disco outside underneath the stars.

6) T-shirt – You could wear a sundress with the jeans, but you might want something more comfortable.

7) Undergarments –You’re an adult. We’ll leave you to make these decisions on your own.

8) Camera – There are countless locations to take phenomenal photos, whether your camera is a point and shoot, or the fanciest model (and either way you should be sure to get tips from Michael).

9) Sunscreen and other toiletries – It’s sunny over 300 days a year, so this is a must to protect your skin. Keep in mind for this and other crèmes and cosmetics, it may be difficult to find what you’re used to using at home, so be sure to pack at least a few small bottles.

10) Marshmallows and peanut butter – To bribe the expats to carry your luggage.

We hope to see you in Mendoza soon, with a tiny backpack or even four. Vamos!

Sharon Nieuwenhuis is The Vines’ new pr pro and believes the right pair of shoes can solve most, if not all, of life’s problems.

 



Vendimia under the stars… What not to miss!

Everyone knows about the major Harvest Festival (Vendimia) events here: the big parades, the beauty queen contest, the huge winetasting, the big show at the end… But some of my favorite Vendimia events are actually the rather less known or attended ones – the cultural events in the park. With live jazz by the lake, steamy tango on a balmy summer’s eve and open air cinema screenings under the stars, could Vendimia get more romantic?

Starting this week are a string of cultural events in the evening in Parque San Martin which often turn out to be some of the best kept secrets of the Harvest Festival agenda:

Cinema in the Park – Bring your Spanish dictionary for this one, because next to the rose garden there will be showings on a big screen of different Mendocinean and Argentine films for a few evenings at the end of January and beginning of February. The closest you can get to a drive-in here and no doubt there will be plenty of young Mendocinos trying John Travolta’s old ‘yawning into a hug’ trick. Chuck a pillow and some mate (Argentine herbal tea) in your bag and watch the films starting at 9.30pm on 24, 25 and 31 of January as well as the 1, 2, 7, 8 and 9 of February.

Dancing in the Park – It might sound like a misspelt Bruce Springsteen song, but there is no mistake in this Vendimia event. Three nights of different traditional dances and music including folk, Arabic belly dancing, flamenco and, of course, tango. For me there is no night quite so quintessentially Argentine then to sit with lots of families crowded around mini picnic tables sharing picadas and malbec, watching smoky-eyed dancers seducing each other through tango, or latin heartthrobs rapping their feet against the boards in fast moving flamenco to the cries of ‘ole’ from the audience. It kicks off at 9.30pm on 26, 27 and 28th Jan.

Jazz by the Lake – In front of Parque San Martin’s picturesque floating island in the middle of the lake, a make shift stage frames some of Mendoza’s best jazz musicians for three nights of open air concerts. Not just jazz, but always a fusion with tango, bossa nova and big band – each night a handful of different performers and groups play to the crowd for a couple hours of gorgeous live music and star gazing. Starting at 8pm on 10, 11 and 12th Feb.

 

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza who still very much believes in old fashioned romance.

 



Life’s a picnic in Mendoza!

I love a good picnic. Maybe it’s something inherently English in me, but checkered blankets, wicker baskets and specially designed crockery send little shivers down my spine.

And Mendoza is the perfect place for a picnic – stunning mountain scenery, 350 sunny days a year and loads of great bottles to crack open upon your comfy picnic rug. How better to spend an afternoon than sipping cool Torrontes under olive trees and looking at the snow dusted Cordon del Plata? This might be my English picnic sentimentality creeping in here again… but here are some top spots for picnics in Mendoza:

Picnic in the Park

With a park the same size as the city, Parque San Martin is the quintessential picnic spot for Mendoza. I particular love to unroll my mat on the island in the middle of the lake – a nice shady spot, and not to mention that the strapping, handsome rowing team circling the lake make good viewing. The upcoming evening Jazz on the Lake (10 – 12 Feb) concerts are just begging to be accompanied by smoked salmon bagels and espumante

Winery picnics: Alta Vista

The latest winery to add gourmet picnics to their offerings, this fab French winery now provides kitsch picnic sets with bento boxes filled with gourmet nibbles such as caramelized onion and mushroom puff pastry slices; eggplant, goat’s cheese and olive oil focaccia; and roast beef ciabatta. All in miniature size you can pick your way through three appetizers, three salads, three sandwiches and finally three desserts while accompanied by a couple glasses of Alta Vista wine. The view of the mountain range is just the icing on the cake! ** Alta Vista, Alzaga 3972, www.altavistawines.com $300 pesos for two people.

Potrerillos

This dam is pretty stunning. A sparkling big blue lake set against a mountain backdrop is idyllic for a picnic. Make sure you bring cushions and a wind breaker as the rocks are pretty hard and the wind picks up quite a bit in the afternoon making it quite the dining ‘al fresco’ experience. When the wind does get going, you can catch a few wind and kite surfers on the water.

Sausage rolls in the hot springs

Sitting in thermal springs with a glass of red and a picnic by your side is a pretty cool way to go. About an hour from Mendoza, Cachueta is a beautiful ravine with thermal springs running through it. Surrounded by the rugged Andes mountains you can park up on the road and scramble down the hillsides to have a picnic by the springs. The walk down is a pretty hair raising experience, but hot relaxing water awaits below, and hopefully the obligatory bottle of Malbec will give you some Dutch courage to get back up again!

 

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza and content to find any excuse to bring out her cheese and ham sarnies for dining al fresco.



5 Questions with Bodega Carinae

Philippe & Brigitte Subra came from France to Mendoza in 1998. Always lovers of wine, they decided to start their own winery in 2003 and began the boutique winery Carinae. Last Wednesday (18 Jan) they came to our Winemaker’s Night and we chatted with them afterwards to learn a bit more about the Franco pair.

Philippe, when did you start to fall in love with wine? What made you want to be a winemaker?

“I have always loved wines but I was not educated in them, so it was really here that we became more attentive to wines. When we saw the winery [in Maipu] we fell in love with the idea of making wine…”

Brigitte, you came to Argentina in slightly later years… Is there anything about Mendocinean life or winemaking that has given you a new lease of life?

“Our love of the people here! The local people are much easier and happy!”

Philippe, Michel Rolland is your wine consultant. How much attention to you pay to what he says? Does he help you maintain a French style?

“… [a moment of silent thought]… Sometimes we have debates about the wine, but in the end we always end up agreeing. And we always come together for decisions.”

Brigitte, Philippe made a wine for you, Cuvee Brigitte, if you could make a wine for him, what would it be and why?

“It definitely needs some Syrah – when I look at our history, Syrah was very important. But it needs to be a blend – maybe with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Malbec. At a premium level, of course!”

Philippe, you are a big fan of astronomy and Carinae was named after a constellation. What is your favorite wine to drink under the stars?

“The truth is that I never want to see two stars when I am drinking instead of one!  Looking at stars is different, but my favorite wine is our Prestige.”

Wines we tried:

Torrontes 2011: Made in Salta, this is their only white wine. It’s quite structured for a torrontes with good acidity and body. Not over powerful in aroma, it’s a much more toned done torrontes which Philippe recommends drinking with oysters.

Malbec Rose 2011: With light strawberry on the nose and a bit of candy-floss, it’s surprising that there is such low residual sugar in this wine. Light, refreshing and easy to drink.

Cuvee Bridgette 2010: This wine was a wine of challenges and unity – much like a marriage, and that’s why it was named after Philippe’s wife. The couple went against their winemaker’s advice and decided to make it on their own, eventually gaining such good responses that they sold it as part of their portfolio. Around 70% Malbec and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, the blend has lots of ripe fruit in the mouth and some mineral notes on the nose.

Syrah Reserva, 2010: This is an intense Syrah that offers a lot of interesting aromas and flavors. A meaty wine with a sweeter finish but plenty of robust tannins to take through the years.

Malbec Gran Reserve 2008: A very dark and inky malbec, the longer time in barrel gives this a deep and rich complexity with lots of pepper, spice and rich red berries. A gorgeous wine that has a very bold expression of Malbec but leaves a lingering trace of a tiramisu…

 

Winemaker’s Night is held every Wednesday at The Vines Tasting Room. Each night a different winemaker comes to share their wines and explain about their winery. To learn more about Carinae visit www.carinaevinos.com

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza and steadily improving her spanish but still failing terribly to pronounce any French wine words correctly.



Shooting for the stars with Caelum

Brother and sister Constanza and Hernan Pimentel came to Winemakers Night this past Wednesday to present four of their boutique production Caelum wines. Something the audience was most curious about is why they chose the name Caelum. Constanza responded that Caelum is the name of a constellation that represents a chisel. The idea behind their choice was that their boutique winery was also an artisanal style winery, made with personal and authentic attention. It also has a double meaning of heaven – and exactly where they are hoping their wines will transport you.

Our first wine of the night was their Rose. Made by Italian winemaker Guiseppe Franceschini, the European tendency was clear from the first glance. This was not your usual Argentinean style bright pink rosado. A light copper/onion skin color, this Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon blend had only three hours of maceration in contact with the skins which produced a more French style rose with a delicate nose of dusty rose petals and strawberries, and a clean, crisp and dry mouth. A perfect aperitif to get this balmy summer night off to the right start!

As Constanza and Hernan discussed the different production techniques we moved on to their unoaked Chardonnay – a pale gold with silver tones, this was a fresh wine with lots of fruit in the nose and a flavorful and expressive mouth with a clean finish and good acidity.  Constanza said that unoaked Chardonnay had a bit of a fight ahead of it because consumers had become used to heavy, buttery oaked Chardonnays (which often put people off), and the battle was changing preconceptions that the varietal can also be fresh, light and fragrant. This unoaked Caelum certainly won over the audience over.

The next wine was their unoaked Malbec — a good chance to get to see the true characteristics of a naked Malbec. The wine had lots of plum, red fruit and slightly meaty characteristics and an easy mouth, but what struck the most was the complex mineral notes. Representative of their very rocky terroir in Lujan, this is typical of the region.

Then we moved onto their Malbec Reserva 2009, with attractive floral notes of lavender and violet and bursting with red fruit this was an attractive Malbec but elegant and balanced in the mouth. Aged 15 months in French oak, the barrels gave it some more spicy and mellow characteristics of clove and anis as well as vanilla pods.

The sibling duo showed us some great wines, of very different characters, and managed to dispel some myths of the wine world while helping us all to look towards the stars after enjoying four lovely glasses of wine!

 

Caelum wines can be bought in The Vines and the winery is open to tourism Monday to Saturdays 10am to 4pm   www.bodegacaelum.com.ar   Winemaker’s Night is held at The Vines of Mendoza’s Tasting Room every Wednesday night at 7:00 p.m.

 

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza and delighting in meeting new winemakers and new wines every week at The Vines.



How to… get medical help in Argentina

So… maybe you have overdone it on the Malbec, or perhaps you’ve eaten a questionable asado, or worse you’ve broken your ankle climbing Aconcagua. Sometimes even the best of us need a bit of medical TLC. In a foreign country, working out just how to get that medical attention can be more of a pain than the actual ailment in question. Here is our guide for how to get medical help while in Mendoza:

1) Farmacia

Your first port of call when you are in pain is the farmacia (pharmacy or chemist in English). They are all over the city and usually open till quite late (but usually close in the siesta, so time your illness well).

As with any normal chemist there is always someone trained in medicine on the staff who can help you with what you need and most drugs are available here – if they tell you that a prescription is required, a nice tip will often solve the problem. But make sure to check your inhibitions at the door – Mendoza’s farmacias are a meeting point for many local oldies. This means that you will have to explain in detail exactly what’s wrong with you in front of Mendoza’s silver society, and probably accept their advice and remedies as well as the pharmacist’s.

The audience participation can be particularly embarrassing if you have a rather personal problem or have forgotten the word for contraceptive and have to resort to explanation. A sort of verbal Charades if you may.

2) Private Clinics

Healthcare here is free, but a lot of people prefer to go private (you’ll see why in point 3). If you have the cash (or insurance), the private clinics are the way forward – they are quicker and more private, however every consultation charges a fee so bring your checkbook. Don’t forget that your passport or ID is sometimes required.

3) Public Hospitals and Clinics

Public healthcare here is of good standard and with some great doctors but, as aforementioned, healthcare in Argentina is free. This means that the hospitals are full with patients of almost every other neighboring country in South America. And lines are long.

If you need emergency medical attention, you will go almost directly to the front of the line, but if your problem is less urgent you need to get to the hospital early to take a ‘turno’ (or number in the line), not unlike public healthcare in the U.S. Most hospitals start issuing turnos at 8am, but don’t come anytime after 8:00 a.m. People start arriving at 6:30 a.m., so to get anywhere decent in the line, you need to get there early too. If you miss your slot, you’ll have to wait until the next day, so wear comfy shoes and don’t forget to bring a book.

Once your turn is up, be prepared to leave your all your inhibitions and modesty in the waiting room. Doctors in Argentina all greet each other and their patients with a kiss,  even in the middle of consultations or sometimes treatments. So, don’t be surprised when the nurse walks in, kisses you both on the cheek and has a little chat about her weekend, no matter what’s happening on the operating table… Welcome to Argentina!

Some useful addresses

Pharmacias – They are so ubiquitous it will not take you more than a block or two walking in the city centre to find one. You can usually spot them by the big cross symbol and ‘Pharmacia’ sign.

Private Clinics – One of the most central is Clinica Colon, Av Colon 277, they can help with general medical issues or direct you to a specialist.

Public Hospitals – Hospital Central, Alem 410; Hospital Lagomaggiore, Gordillo.

Emergency number – 107

 

Useful Spanish:

Ache, pain – dolor

Bite (insect) – picadura

Broken bone – hueso roto

Constipation – estreñimiento

Fever – fiebre calenture

Flu – gripe

Heartburn – acedia

Infection – infección

Injury – herida

 

Amanda Barnes is a British journalist living in Mendoza with a big bag of painkillers and a tendency to avoid hospitals at all costs.



The Vines Featured in the Wall Street Journal

Recently, Heidi Mitchell of the Wall Street Journal came to spend some time with us in Mendoza. Check out what she wrote in the January 7th WSJ here or at http://on.wsj.com/ynhwLj:

Owning a Piece of the Vineyard

By HEIDI MITCHELL

[MENDOZA]

GROW A ROW | Private Vineyard Estates at the Vines of Mendoza, in Western Argentina’s Uco Valley

One hundred twenty to a row.

That’s what the disarmingly attractive Argentine farmer tells me as he hands me a stack of American root-stock grafted with fruit-forward Torrontés grape vines. Two pairs of gloves and a shovel follow. Down the string my friend and I trace, digging six-inch-deep holes, aligning the grafting scar on the baby vine with a pinprick in the irrigation line, then setting the vine in the pebbly earth and burying its hairy roots. A pro could plant 100 an hour; in five minutes, we’ve given life to five.

“Don’t worry if you’re slow or the plants aren’t fully upright,” our tutor, Francisco Evangelista, says. “We usually replant them, anyway.”

Photos: D.I.Y. Wine

Mendoza’s Private Vineyard Estates

Only a handful of the 97 owners at the Vines of Mendoza, a 1,000-some-acre co-op vineyard in western Argentina, will not need their handiwork replaced by professional agronomists like Mr. Evangelista. No matter: It’s the process that’s so inviting. As we dig, place and fill, our hands cramp in the chill, our boots cake over with mud. Far beyond the stripes of Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Tempranillo and 11 other varietals, the land abruptly erupts into the silver-capped pre-Andes. Above them is nothing but blue sky, which glows even without the benefit of polarized sunglasses.

Two years ago, a colleague bragged that he and two friends had bought three acres of vineyards in Argentina’s Uco Valley for $210,000, including the first two years of farming fees. Each harvest season since, he and his partner-pals have gone down to the fast-growing wine region to pick and crush their grapes, then blend them into premium wines under the guidance of Santiago Achával, one of Argentina’s most revered winemakers (his Malbecs can sell for more than $100 a bottle—several times the typical price). They ride horseback and enjoy heavy meat-and-wine asados with the gauchos, spending the night in the three on-site cabins for an all-inclusive $250. Starting this year, they’ll have some 12,000 bottles of wine annually to label and drink as they choose, at a cost of $3,000 per acre in farming fees.

“A glass is placed in my hand even before I can brush the ferrous dirt from my jeans.”

Needless to say, I became slightly obsessed with the venture. Eventually, I reached out to founder Michael Evans, a reformed dot-commer who ran business development for iNetNow, a Web-based concierge service, in 2004, then quit to go on the Democratic campaign trail. He came to Argentina to detox afterward; he never went back. And after many false starts, I finally made my way to Mendoza.

A 12-hour flight from New York, followed by a two-hour puddle-hop from Buenos Aires, and still we’re not deep in the heart of Mendoza. That requires off-roading 60 miles from the airport, traversing a muddy road that’s become a Class V rapid in the rain, then trotting on horseback through the Uco Valley basin. Everywhere you look, it’s vineyard after vineyard, each more modern and gravity-defying than the next. (Rioja has nothing on this place.) A leathery gaucho named Walter Martinez leads me and my friend on a trail ride through a landscape that could have been Photoshopped from my home state of Arizona. There are even saguaro cacti. He points out where homesites will be (owners with three or more acres are granted building permits), where the lake for the 22-casita poured-concrete resort and spa is being dug, where he takes guests on camping trips up into the Andes.

MENDOZA

Setting up for an asado

It is late October, spring in Argentina, and as the season dawns all around us, a few older vines—originally planted in 2007—are beginning to twist their greenery around the wooden stakes. One galloping stretch that leaves my heart in my shoes brings us to the big reveal: the winery. Appearing more like an angular performing arts center than a home for aging wines, the building is cold in every sense of the term. I love it. “This is where the magic happens,” Mr. Evans tells me as he greets my dismounting party with a party of his own. A glass is placed in my hand even before I can brush the ferrous dirt from my jeans. And then we are inside the austere, echoing, sparkling palace of fermentation, and my breath is stolen from me.

Cooperative vineyards are not a new idea—farmers have been organizing them on a small scale in Alsace, France, since 1895. The Napa Valley Reserve in California and L’And Vineyards in Portugal’s Alentejo region are just two other recent incarnations. No matter how you slice it, though, in the Northern Hemisphere it’s cheaper to be a wine enthusiast than a hobby farmer. (The old joke goes, “How do you make a small fortune from a vineyard? Start with a large fortune.”) But in Mendoza, where the climate is harsh enough to torture vines into producing stellar grapes, land is plentiful and inexpensive. Construction costs only about $100 a square foot. Erecting an ancestral home in the Uco Valley isn’t a pipe dream. It’s within the realm of reality.

MENDOZA

Hard at work during the annual ‘wine camp’

With annual costs included, a typical owner will generally spend around $12 per bottle on creating his or her own super premium wine at the Vines of Mendoza; at retail, it would sell for around $50 a bottle, according to winemaker Santiago Achával. You probably won’t get rich off a few acres in Argentina, but who can put a price tag on stomping, mixing and bottling your own vintage, then slapping on a label with your (made-up) family crest?

The modernist winery is the opposite of quaint. Huge metal tanks await next harvest. Rows of oak barrels fill darkened rooms. A whisper becomes a shout, what with all the bare surfaces to bounce off of. Another gorgeous member of the Vines team, winemaker Mariana Onofri, walks me through the life of a grape, from planting and pruning to hydraulic presses and the Oxoline system of barrel fermentation. A winery of this size—producing 180,000 bottles a year—would typically make 10 fermentations (types of wines), she tells me. Because there are effectively 97 winemakers/owners here, however, the Vines of Mendoza created 161 smaller fermentations in 2011 alone. A team of winemakers dips into the barrels every two weeks to assure quality and flavor.

And then we sit down to drink. Five glasses stand at each of the two-dozen seats at the communal table, which becomes a hive of servers and roasted pork and barbecued sausage and crisp Sauvignon Blancs that were bottled on Friday. Staff from the winery, some owners down from Buenos Aires and a couple of gauchos join in. We taste a Merlot from 2010 that has a nose of chocolate and will be bottled in January. A Malbec in its bitter youth is passed; it will be 17 months before it’s ready to hit shelves. A smooth, dry blend of Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc is served before dessert; this won’t see a liquor store until 2013.

By the end of this typical Wednesday at the cooperative, we’re all a little tipsy and giving away more than a few secrets. Someone reveals that a bold-faced chef has recently purchased some acreage. There’s a running joke that the staff is publishing a fireman-style calendar, and glasses clink as we all agree to buy one. We’re eventually packed off to town with sacks of recently bottled Tempranillos. My friend and I hatch a plan to create a joint venture and buy one of the remaining plots, jesting that our grandchildren will someday drink those crooked Torrontes we planted earlier in the day. “You’ll be back,” says Mr. Evans, who reminds me that he came on a lark after John Kerry’s presidential campaign tanked, and never left. In my oaky, fruity, spicy haze, I know that I just might.

The Lowdown: Mendoza, Argentina

How to Join:Three-acre plots at the Vines of Mendoza start at $73,000 per acre, including the first two years of farming and planting costs; the annual farming fees are $3,000 per acre starting in the third year ( vinesofmendoza.com ).

Getting There: Fly from Buenos Aires or Santiago to Mendoza’s El Plumerillo airport (request a window seat for Andes views). Alternatively, Mendoza is a six-hour-plus drive over the mountains from Santiago—a beautiful trip, though one that requires hiring a driver licensed to take you over the border (contact a local tour company).

Staying There: If you’re not staying in the cabins at the Vines of Mendoza (the 22-room hotel will open in late 2012), the Cavas Wine Lodge is 40 miles down the road (from $605 per night, cavaswinelodge.com ) and has a spa that specializes in vinotherapy. The Park Hyatt Mendoza (doubles from $222 per night, mendoza.park.hyatt.com ) is downtown, in a converted 1920s colonial retreat.

Where to Eat: For amazing food presented in a lovely courtyard under the stars, book a table at Francis Mallmann’s 1884 (1884restaurante.com.ar ), right outside of Mendoza. For more local cuisine, Siete Cocinas serves dishes from seven culinary regions of Argentina ( sietecocinas.com.ar ). Don Mario has arguably the best—and undoubtedly the biggest—steaks in the area ( donmario.com.ar ). A wine-pairing lunch at a vineyard is a must-do. Two to pre-book: the French-chateâu-style Andeluna Cellars ( andeluna.com ) and La Bourgogne ( labourgogne-mendoza.com.ar ), which updates its French menu seasonally.



2011, A Year To Remember

It is true that overall, in Argentina, we tend to have very stable vintages that allow us to produce, year after year, wines within a certain degree of quality constancy.  Because we are in a desert region we are able to control a very important factor – irrigation. If you are able to make precise decisions during the growing season, the probability of making a very good wine every year is very attainable.

I do, however, believe there are interesting differences between vintages in Argentina. It is important not to generalize and talk of Argentina as a single wine region, as unfortunately many wine guides do. Instead, Argentina should be specifically assessed by region. It is a big country with very well-defined and distinct wine regions, from Salta in the north to Rio Negro in Patagonia. Even within Mendoza, there are four main wine regions that are all very distinct. Even beyond differentiating regions, specifications should be made among the varietals as well. For example, a good year for Malbec might not be the best year for Cabernet Sauvignon.

The truth is that a year with difficult climatic conditions, tends to make a superb vintage. It is actually in those difficult years, when the vines struggle and growers take the right decisions at the right moment, when we are able to judge that a vintage is a great one.  Of course that does depend on from which viewpoint you are making that evaluation.  A good year for a mass grape producer might be very different then for a winemaker who is looking for the best grape quality without caring much about volume.

According to Paul Hobbs and Alberto Antonini, International winemakers, 2011 was a year with equal or better quality compared to the 2002 and 2006 harvests – the best ones registered in Argentina’s history – mainly because of the balance of the wines, fruit expression, elegance, pureness and fruit clarity. I have to say that 2011 was a great year for The Vines of Mendoza. When tasting the wines with Santiago Achaval, our consulting winemaker, and Pablo Martorell, our head winemaker, we all agreed that the quality obtained in 2011 from our relatively young vines is amazing. The wines have an amazingly deep color, , great tannin structure, a lot of fruit expression, and very good aging potential.

Personally, I do believe in the differentiation of vintages and I think it is a challenge for our industry to market the wines and price them according to the results we obtain in the different years. I understand cash flow is important for wineries, and so  holding on to the best vintages and waiting for the right moment to release a wine can be very difficult decision. Yet, I bet there are many wine lovers that would adore walking into the best wineries in Argentina and being able to purchase our best vintages without caring much about price. As they probably do in some of the best wineries around the world!

The Vines Winemaking team – Pablo Gimenez Riili, Pablo Martorell, Santiago Achaval, Mariana Onofri – tasting the 2011 vintage.



Anatomy of a Wine Tasting Note- Part I


So one of my favorite pastimes is to write wine tasting notes. Not only do you get to make your drinking habit look somewhat professional but you get to learn a little more about what you are pouring into your glass everyday.

Part 1- The Technical Tasting Note 

Ok, so I am not good at the boring blah blah blah that you usually get from wine professionals. I get that glazed over look as they talk about adequate tannins and structure, prominent anthocyanins, etc. Don’t get me wrong, I can talk the talk and also throw it in the mix, its just that I think there is a better and more fun way to talk about wine, one that everyone can grasp.

So, we will divide this “mini” course into small chunks with some take aways so that soon you too, can be a master tasting note writer and awe your friends with your wine tasting abilities and hopefully, creativity. So to kick things off we are going to start with the tasting note skeleton which is made up of 5 S’s.

So onward- the 5 S’s- this should be fun!

See- This is what you see in the glass. Look at the color, the opacity, the different hues around the edge and then start to think back to when you started to learn about the rainbow colors. Now try to identify those colors. I know you have all looked at clothing catalogs, so feel free to steal some names from clothing items like cranberry, straw, maybe even a hint of periwinkle etc.

Try to do it with adequate light and hopefully have a whitish surface as a background. Try not to look at the glass with a fuscia shirt in the background for example, it tends to skew the results. Also, you don’t want to look like a blind mouse running about searching for the light, so if you are in a compromised situation, its ok, just move on to the next step.

Swirl- Let’s get some movement going in that glass- I want to see those legs do some dancing! But try and get a gauge of your glass shape and size before you do so, otherwise you may be wearing half of your glass of wine. The best thing to do for beginners is to start slow with your glass of wine on a smooth table-like surface and, keeping the base of the glass on table, start to make small circular gestures. There you go, keep going, until you can take off the training wheels and go stem swirling only!

Sniff- Now this is probably the hardest step to do without looking like a complete idiot or a confirmed wine snob. But yes, you can do it! Once you have the swirling part down just start to lift the glass lightly to your nose and take a delicate whiff. See what you think, what your first takeaway is. Its okay if you don’t smell anything at first, it takes practice and what fun it is to practice with wine! The best thing to get started is to practice your swirl and then periodically sniff. See if you can smell the same essences from the first time to the next. Try to associate the different smells with foods you eat or experiences you have. There are no rules and no right answers, because this is a sensory exercise and everyones senses are different.

Try this out every time you have a glass of wine and you will increase your olfactory vocabulary quite quickly. Take time in the market to smell pinapples, berries, fruits and spices. Not only does it give you a zen-like moment to your day but it makes you start to create the smell memories that will help you with the PART II of the Tasting note course!

Sip- So this is really my favorite part of the exercise. If you are with a group, try to delicately taste the wine and see what your overall experience is. Take time to notice how it hits your tongue, is it spicy, tickly, acidic, soft, chocolatey? How does it slide through your mouth- is it elegant, grippy, tart?  If you are alone with your glass of wine, you can go full monty and close your eyes, sigh deeply and truly indulge in the experience.

Savor- So now you have experienced the wine from your sight, smell and taste, now it is time to see what remains. How was the wine structured? Did it have a lot of acid, tannin,  etc.? Basically … a lot of the boring things that you hear about but never really take into account. You don’t have to have the vocabulary, you should just know what it tastes like for you. Once you swallow what flavors linger, or does it even linger? What is your overall impression of the wine? Would you buy it again? Would you give it as a gift to a friend? 

So the take aways from this basic anatomy of a wine tasting note:

1. Relax and put your sensory hat on.

2. Don’t worry that you don’t know that much about wine- just know what you like and don’t like.

3. Follow the 5 S’s and you will look like a wine pro in no time!

 

And stay tuned for Part II…

 

Emily is The Director of Marketing for The Vines of Mendoza and likes to dabble in wines tastings and sensory evaluation.